Dakar sprawls across the western tip of the Cap-Vert peninsula, the westernmost point of mainland Africa. It's a city of two faces: the colonial-era core around Place de l'Indépendance and Plateau, and the chaotic, vibrant outer neighbourhoods like Médina, Yoff and Ouakam.
Île de Gorée
The UNESCO-listed island sits 20 minutes by ferry from the port. The Maison des Esclaves is a sobering memorial; the rest of the island — colourful colonial buildings, small beach, clifftop fort — is best explored slowly on foot.
Where to eat
Dakar is the food capital of West Africa. Try Chez Loutcha for Senegalese-Cape Verdean classics, La Calebasse for upscale Senegalese, or grab a thieboudienne (Senegal's national dish) anywhere with a queue at lunchtime.
Music and nightlife
Dakar's mbalax scene is legendary. Youssou N'Dour's Thiossane club in Sicap is the most famous venue; Just 4 U in Mermoz hosts smaller acts most nights.