Dakar spreads across the Cap-Vert peninsula, the westernmost point of mainland Africa. Two cities, really: the colonial core around Place de l'Indépendance and Plateau, and the louder, faster neighbourhoods further out — Médina, Yoff, Ouakam.
Île de Gorée
The UNESCO-listed island is a 20-minute ferry from the port. The Maison des Esclaves is a sobering stop; the rest — faded colonial houses, a small beach, a clifftop fort — rewards an unhurried wander on foot.
Where to eat
You eat well here. Chez Loutcha does Senegalese-Cape Verdean classics, La Calebasse is the smarter end of Senegalese cooking, and a good thieboudienne (the national dish) is wherever there's a lunchtime queue.
Music and nightlife
Dakar runs on mbalax. Youssou N'Dour's Thiossane in Sicap is the famous room; Just 4 U in Mermoz has smaller acts most nights.